Pacific Pressure
Charts
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HOW
TO PREDICT A SWELL FROM WEATHER CHARTS
Look
for a storm and verify it will be in your swell window.
Regularly review atmospheric
models that depict both surface
pressure and winds (like the AVN or MRF).
Look for periods
when winds are forecast to blow in excess of 25 kts towards
your beach for longer than 24 hours. Then verify that the winds
are forecast
to be positioned within your swell window .
The best situation is to have
high winds, covering a large fetch
area, blowing at you for a long time. But
only experience will
determine what the requirements are for your beach.
A
'swell window' is the part of your ocean that provides a swell
unobstructed,
straight-line access to your beach (even 1000 miles
or more away). Get a globe.
Locate your beach. Identify islands,
shoals, land, or anything that could
obstruct a swell from proceeding
straight into your beach. Using a string
and a pin, tie the string to the
pin, and stick the pin into the globe on
your beach. Using the string
as a guide, pull it tight and out into the ocean
away from your beach.
Move the string in different directions along the surface
of the globe.
Wherever the string first touches the edge of land (or anything
that
would obstruct a swell), trace the line of the string onto the globe
using a pen. If you have access to "Great Circle" charts, use them
instead. All beaches will have at least 2 boundaries to their swell
window,
and if islands are present, perhaps many more.